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Reference

The words on a kitchen quote, explained

Thirty terms that show up on kitchen quotes, drawings, and inspection cards around Fort Collins. Read the list once and a quote stops being a wall of jargon.

Frameless cabinet (full access)
A cabinet box built without a face frame at the front, so the door covers the entire opening and the drawer boxes run nearly the full internal width. Common in European lines. Gives measurably more usable volume than a framed box of the same outside dimension, which matters most in small kitchens.
Framed cabinet
A cabinet box with a hardwood frame applied to the front edges. Doors and hinges mount to that frame. It is more forgiving to install in an out-of-square room and is the dominant construction in American stock and semi-custom lines. The frame costs you about an inch of opening on each side.
Overlay
How much of the cabinet frame the door covers. Full overlay leaves only a narrow reveal between doors and reads as a continuous run. Partial or standard overlay leaves the frame visible around each door. Inset sits the door flush inside the frame, which is the most expensive and least tolerant of seasonal wood movement.
Furniture board
Engineered panel made from wood particles and resin, used for cabinet boxes in many stock and semi-custom lines. Dimensionally stable and perfectly serviceable dry, but it swells irreversibly once water gets into a cut edge, which is why the cabinet under the sink is the one that fails first.
Plywood box
A cabinet carcass built from veneer-core plywood rather than furniture board. Lighter, holds screws better, and survives a leak under the sink rather than swelling. Usually a paid upgrade on semi-custom lines and standard on custom shops. Worth specifying at least for the sink base.
Toe kick
The recessed space at the bottom front of a base cabinet, typically about 4 inches high and 3 inches deep, that lets you stand at the counter without your toes hitting the cabinet. Also where a swollen furniture-board box shows its damage first.
Filler and scribe
Narrow strips of matching material used to close the gap between a cabinet run and a wall, and to follow the wall when it is not straight. Fillers are what make a run of factory boxes look built for the room. A quote with no filler line is a quote drawn without measuring the walls.
Undermount full-extension slide
Drawer hardware hidden beneath the drawer box that pulls the drawer all the way clear of the cabinet, so the back of the drawer is reachable. Now standard on most current cabinet lines, usually with soft-close. The alternative, a side-mount three-quarter-extension slide, leaves the last several inches of the drawer permanently inside the cabinet.
Work triangle
The planning concept that relates the primary sink, the cooking surface, and the refrigerator. Kitchen planning guidance keeps the total of the three legs within a workable range and keeps traffic from cutting through the middle. Useful as a check, not as a rule, since many modern kitchens work in zones rather than a triangle.
Work aisle
The clear floor space between two opposing work surfaces, such as a counter and an island. Kitchen planning guidelines call for at least 42 inches for one cook and 48 inches for two. The figure is measured to the face of appliances, not the counter edge, because it is the open dishwasher door that defines whether the aisle works.
Landing area
Uninterrupted counter next to an appliance where you can set things down. Planning guidance calls for landing space on both sides of the cooking surface and adjacent to the refrigerator and the sink. It is the most commonly sacrificed dimension in a tight kitchen and the one most missed afterwards.
Counter-depth refrigerator
A refrigerator built shallower than standard, roughly 24 to 25 inches deep excluding doors, so its face sits close to flush with the counter run. Costs more per cubic foot of storage and gives back most of a foot of aisle. In a galley or a small kitchen that trade is usually worth it.
Small-appliance branch circuit
A dedicated 20-amp circuit that serves countertop receptacles in the kitchen and does not feed lighting or other rooms. Electrical code requires at least two of them in a kitchen. They exist because a toaster and a kettle on the same 15-amp circuit trip the breaker, which is the single most common complaint about pre-1980s kitchen wiring.
Dedicated circuit
A circuit serving one appliance and nothing else. Dishwasher, disposal, range or cooktop, wall oven, and built-in microwave each typically get one. A remodel is when this gets sorted out, because the wire has to be run while the walls are open.
GFCI
Ground-fault circuit interrupter. It watches for current leaking to ground and opens the circuit in milliseconds, which is what stands between a person at a wet sink and a serious shock. Kitchen countertop receptacles require it, and recent code cycles extended the requirement to appliance outlets too.
AFCI
Arc-fault circuit interrupter. A breaker that detects the electrical signature of an arcing connection, the kind that starts fires inside a wall, and opens the circuit. Required on many residential circuits under current code. Combination AFCI/GFCI devices are common in kitchen remodels.
Rough-in
The stage where plumbing pipe, electrical cable, and ductwork are installed inside open walls and floors, before insulation and drywall. Everything cheap to change is changed at rough-in and expensive to change afterwards. It is also the stage that gets inspected before it is covered.
Makeup air
Replacement air supplied to a house to balance what a powerful range hood exhausts. Residential code requires a makeup air system once the exhaust rate passes a defined threshold, because a strong hood in a tight house can otherwise pull combustion gases back down a flue. Ask which threshold applies before specifying a high-CFM hood.
Ducted vs recirculating hood
A ducted hood carries grease, moisture, and combustion products outside. A recirculating hood pushes air through a charcoal filter and back into the room, removing some odor and none of the moisture. Ducted is meaningfully better, and the duct run should be short, smooth-walled, and as straight as the framing allows.
CFM
Cubic feet per minute, the airflow rating of a range hood. Sizing follows the appliance below it and the width of the hood rather than the size of the room. Very high CFM ratings sound impressive and bring makeup air requirements, duct sizing constraints, and noise along with them.
Quartz (engineered stone)
Countertop material made from crushed quartz bound in polymer resin. Non-porous, so it never needs sealing and resists staining well. Its weakness is heat: the resin scorches under a pan straight off the burner. Consistent pattern from slab to slab, which makes seams easier to hide.
Quartzite
A natural metamorphic stone, not to be confused with engineered quartz despite the name. Harder than granite, often dramatic in pattern, generally needs sealing, and sits at the top of the material budget. Some slabs sold as quartzite are softer stones, so the fabricator should confirm what a slab really is.
Template
The measurement taken by the countertop fabricator on the installed cabinets, usually digitally, that captures the real geometry of the room including every bow in the wall. Slabs are cut from the template, not from the drawing. Nothing about the counters can be ordered until the cabinets are set.
Seam
The joint where two pieces of countertop meet. Unavoidable on runs longer than a slab, which is commonly around 120 to 130 inches. Good practice puts the seam at a sink or an inside corner where it is least visible and least stressed, and books the pattern across it on natural stone.
Waterfall edge
A countertop detail where the stone continues down the side of an island to the floor. It requires a mitered corner cut and careful pattern matching, uses considerably more material, and is one of the more expensive details per linear foot in a kitchen.
Overhang and corbel
The unsupported projection of a counter past the cabinet, and the bracket that supports it. Stone cantilevers roughly 10 to 12 inches unsupported depending on thickness and material, so a seating overhang beyond that needs corbels, a steel plate, or a supporting panel. A cracked overhang cannot be repaired invisibly.
Backsplash
The finished wall surface between the counter and the upper cabinets. Tile is the usual choice, and a full-height slab of the counter material behind the range is a common upgrade. Outlets and switches in this zone are reset flush with the finished tile surface, which is a detail worth confirming is in the scope.
Change order
A written amendment to the contract covering work that was not in the original scope, priced and signed before the work happens. Rot under a dishwasher, a drain stack in a wall being removed, or a panel upgrade all arrive as change orders. Their presence is normal. Their absence, on a job where surprises appeared, is a warning sign.
Allowance
A budgeted dollar figure in the contract for an item you have not yet chosen, such as tile, hardware, or the faucet. Allowances keep a project moving before every selection is made. A quote built on thin allowances looks cheaper than it is, so it is worth checking that each allowance would buy something you would choose.
Punch list
The list of small defects and unfinished items compiled at the walkthrough near the end of the job: a door that needs adjusting, a caulk line to redo, a missing filler strip. Final payment is customarily held until the punch list is cleared, which is what gives it force.

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