Reference
The words on a kitchen quote, explained
Thirty terms that show up on kitchen quotes, drawings, and contracts around Fort Collins. Read the list once and a quote stops being a wall of jargon.
- Frameless cabinet (full access)
- A cabinet box built without a face frame at the front, so the door covers the entire opening and the drawer boxes run nearly the full internal width. Common in European lines. Gives measurably more usable volume than a framed box of the same outside dimension, which matters most in small kitchens.
- Framed cabinet
- A cabinet box with a hardwood frame applied to the front edges. Doors and hinges mount to that frame. It is more forgiving to install in an out-of-square room and is the dominant construction in American stock and semi-custom lines. The frame narrows the opening it surrounds, which is the trade against a frameless box.
- Overlay
- How much of the cabinet frame the door covers. Full overlay leaves only a narrow reveal between doors and reads as a continuous run. Partial or standard overlay leaves the frame visible around each door. Inset sits the door flush inside the frame, which is the most expensive and least tolerant of seasonal wood movement.
- Furniture board
- Engineered panel made from wood particles and resin, used for cabinet boxes in many stock and semi-custom lines. Dimensionally stable and perfectly serviceable dry, but it swells irreversibly once water gets into a cut edge, which is why the cabinet under the sink is the one that fails first.
- Plywood box
- A cabinet carcass built from veneer-core plywood rather than furniture board. Lighter, holds screws better, and survives a leak under the sink rather than swelling. Usually a paid upgrade on semi-custom lines and standard on custom shops. Worth specifying at least for the sink base.
- Toe kick
- The recess set into the bottom front of a base cabinet so you can stand square to the counter without your toes hitting the door. Also where a swollen furniture-board box shows its damage first, because it sits closest to the floor.
- Filler and scribe
- Narrow strips of matching material used to close the gap between a cabinet run and a wall, and to follow the wall when it is not straight. Fillers are what make a run of factory boxes look built for the room. A quote with no filler line is a quote drawn without measuring the walls.
- Undermount full-extension slide
- Drawer hardware hidden beneath the drawer box that pulls the drawer all the way clear of the cabinet, so the back of the drawer is reachable. Now standard on most current cabinet lines, usually with soft-close. The alternative, a side-mount three-quarter-extension slide, leaves the back of the drawer permanently inside the cabinet, which is where things go to be forgotten.
- Work triangle
- The planning idea that connects the primary sink, the cooking surface, and the refrigerator. It describes a sequence rather than a shape: food comes out of cold storage, gets washed, and goes onto the heat, and the cook walks that loop repeatedly through one meal. Anything parked in the middle of it is walked around every time. Useful as a check rather than a rule, since many current kitchens work in zones instead.
- Work aisle
- The clear floor between two opposing work surfaces, such as a counter and an island. It is the one space in a kitchen that has to hold several things at once: a crouching cook, an oven door dropped open, a dishwasher door lying flat, and somebody trying to get past all three. Appliance doors rather than counter edges are what consume it, which is why an aisle that reads as generous on a plan can fail in use.
- Landing area
- Uninterrupted counter next to an appliance where you can set things down. It belongs beside the cooking surface, beside the sink, and on the side the refrigerator door opens toward. It is the first thing surrendered when a kitchen gets tight and the thing most missed afterwards.
- Counter-depth refrigerator
- A refrigerator built shallower than a standard box, so its face sits close to flush with the counter run instead of standing proud of it. It costs more for less storage inside and hands the difference back to the aisle. In a galley or any small kitchen that trade is usually worth taking.
- Small-appliance branch circuit
- A dedicated 20-amp circuit that serves countertop receptacles in the kitchen and does not feed lighting or other rooms. A kitchen gets at least two, and often more. They exist because a toaster and a kettle on the same 15-amp circuit trip the breaker, which is the single most common complaint about pre-1980s kitchen wiring.
- Dedicated circuit
- A circuit serving one appliance and nothing else. Dishwasher, disposal, range or cooktop, wall oven, and built-in microwave each typically get one. A remodel is when this gets sorted out, because the wire has to be run while the walls are open.
- GFCI
- Ground-fault circuit interrupter. It watches for current leaking to ground and opens the circuit in milliseconds, which is what stands between a person at a wet sink and a serious shock. Kitchen countertop receptacles get it as standard, and it now reaches appliance outlets in most current work too.
- AFCI
- Arc-fault circuit interrupter. A breaker that detects the electrical signature of an arcing connection, the kind that starts fires inside a wall, and opens the circuit. Fitted to most living-space circuits in current work. Combination AFCI/GFCI devices are common in kitchen remodels.
- Rough-in
- The stage where plumbing pipe, electrical cable, and ductwork are installed inside open walls and floors, before insulation and drywall. Everything cheap to change is changed at rough-in and expensive to change afterwards. It is the last point at which a receptacle, a light position, or a supply line can move for the price of an hour of labor.
- Makeup air
- Replacement air supplied to a house to balance what a powerful range hood exhausts. A strong hood in a tightly built house that has no makeup air path can pull combustion gases back down a flue, or make an exterior door hard to open while it runs. Ask about it before specifying a high-CFM hood, not after the walls are closed.
- Ducted vs recirculating hood
- A ducted hood carries grease, moisture, and combustion products outside. A recirculating hood pushes air through a charcoal filter and back into the room, removing some odor and none of the moisture. Ducted is meaningfully better, and the duct run should be short, smooth-walled, and as straight as the framing allows.
- CFM
- Cubic feet per minute, the airflow rating of a range hood. Sizing follows the appliance below it and the width of the hood rather than the size of the room. Very high CFM ratings sound impressive and bring makeup air, duct sizing constraints, and noise along with them.
- Quartz (engineered stone)
- Countertop material made from crushed quartz bound in polymer resin. Non-porous, so it never needs sealing and resists staining well. Its weakness is heat: the resin scorches under a pan straight off the burner. Consistent pattern from slab to slab, which makes seams easier to hide.
- Quartzite
- A natural metamorphic stone, not to be confused with engineered quartz despite the name. Harder than granite, often dramatic in pattern, generally needs sealing, and sits at the top of the material budget. Some slabs sold as quartzite are softer stones, so the fabricator should confirm what a slab really is.
- Template
- The measurement taken by the countertop fabricator on the installed cabinets, usually digitally, that captures the real geometry of the room including every bow in the wall. Slabs are cut from the template, not from the drawing. Nothing about the counters can be ordered until the cabinets are set.
- Seam
- The joint where two pieces of countertop meet. Any run that outruns a single slab has one, so the question is never whether but where. The least visible and least stressed places are a sink cutout or an inside corner, and on natural stone the pattern is booked across the joint so it reads as continuous.
- Waterfall edge
- A countertop detail where the stone continues down the side of an island to the floor. It requires a mitered corner cut and careful pattern matching, uses considerably more material, and is one of the more expensive details per linear foot in a kitchen.
- Overhang and corbel
- The projection of a counter past the cabinet below it, and the bracket that holds it up. Stone is strong in compression and weak in tension, so it carries itself out to a point that depends on the material and the thickness of the slab, and snaps past it when somebody leans on the edge. A seating overhang normally reaches past that point and needs corbels, a steel plate, or a support panel. A cracked overhang cannot be repaired invisibly.
- Backsplash
- The finished wall surface between the counter and the upper cabinets. Tile is the usual choice, and a full-height slab of the counter material behind the range is a common upgrade. Outlets and switches in this zone are reset flush with the finished tile surface, which is a detail worth confirming is in the scope.
- Change order
- A written amendment to the contract covering work that was not in the original scope, priced and signed before the work happens. Rot under a dishwasher, a drain stack in a wall being removed, or a panel upgrade all arrive as change orders. Their presence is normal. Their absence, on a job where surprises appeared, is a warning sign.
- Allowance
- A budgeted dollar figure in the contract for an item you have not yet chosen, such as tile, hardware, or the faucet. Allowances keep a project moving before every selection is made. A quote built on thin allowances looks cheaper than it is, so it is worth checking that each allowance would buy something you would choose.
- Punch list
- The list of small defects and unfinished items compiled at the walkthrough near the end of the job: a door that needs adjusting, a caulk line to redo, a missing filler strip. Final payment is customarily held until the punch list is cleared, which is what gives it force.
Reading a quote and unsure what a line means? Call (970) 305-3265, or work through the cost calculator and the Fort Collins kitchen guide for the numbers behind each line.
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